3 Days in Kythira: A Greek Island Off the Beaten Path

in
Europe,Greece

With so many Greek islands to choose from, it can be easy to overlook some of the best. Kythira, a lone dot hanging off the southernmost foot of the Peloponnese, deserves far more attention than it gets. You’ll find beaches and historic villages, hiking trails and secret pools. If you’re lucky enough to find yourself with three days on this less-touristed Ionian gem, here’s a great Kythira itinerary.

Day 1

Visit Melidoni Beach

View over Melidoni Beach in Kythira with calm blue water, rocky hills, and beach umbrellas

Kythira (also transliterated as Kythera, Cythera, and Kithira) has lots of beaches, and this well-serviced spot is a good introduction. The beach has some sand, the water is calm, and you can swim out to rocks to see tide pools. A small cafe serves drinks and has music that drove me a bit crazy. You have to pay for the umbrellas, but for your 10 Euros you get a towel clip, a trash bag, and a delicious paximadi (a sort of Greek biscotti). This is not our very favorite beach (more on those below), but we enjoyed our time there.

Stop by the Church of Aiyos Dimetrios

Exterior of the Church of Aiyos Dimetrios in Kythira with rounded architecture and dry landscape

This cute, hobbit-like church is on the road to Melidoni, and while it’ll likely be closed, the exterior is worth a look.

Have lunch at Pierros in Livadi

Woman enjoying Greek food at an outdoor restaurant in Kythira with salads, bread, and drinks

The owner here is the consummate salesman, and he’ll give you a tour of the kitchen to help you choose your food. The stuffed eggplant is out of this world.

Visit Chora

View over Chora in Kythira from the Venetian castle with white buildings and mountain scenery

Kythira’s capital is a lovely place for a stroll, and it’s worth making time both for the town itself …

Stone steps leading toward a church bell tower in Chora, Kythira, framed by white walls and flowering vines

… and for the ruins of the 12th-13th century Venetian castle at the top of the hill:

Chora in Kythira with white buildings and the Venetian castle rising above the town skyline

The views from the top are amazing …

View through a stone opening in Kythira's Venetian castle toward a white church and hills

… and if you’re hot, you can drop down to the coast after your visit and hop into the water at family-friendly Kapsali Beach.

Panoramic view over Kapsali Bay in Kythira with sailboats, blue water, and whitewashed coastal buildings

Stay at Giannikas Apartments

Giannikas Apartments in Kythira with cream-colored buildings, gardens, and mountain scenery

We loved staying in these simple, clean, well-serviced, and high-value rooms just outside of Livadi. The views from the balconies out over the gardens and toward town can’t be beaten.

View across gardens and white buildings near Livadi in Kythira beneath dry hills and a cloudless sky

Day 2

Hike and swim in Milopotamos

The town of Milopotamos has a great set of shady hiking trails, the best of which runs along a river. You’ll walk past waterfalls, old mills, and mill houses as you meander gently downhill. If you’re lucky, you’ll find fresh fruit along the way (we ended up with a great haul of apricots after a good round of vigorous tree-shaking) …

Fresh apricots gathered beside the Milopotamos trail in Kythira resting among dry leaves and plants

… and you’ll have a chance to take a dip in one of the crystal-clear pools.

Woman taking a selfie beside a crystal-clear pool along the Milopotamos hiking trail in Kythira, Greece

Make sure to follow the blazes carefully, though! After you’ve followed the trail through one of the old mills, it’s important not to veer off to the left (that trail will take you up into the mountains). Just stay along the river – and know that while the first set of pools you encounter is stunning, an even greater set of pools lies just a bit further on down the stream.

Have lunch at Platanos

Giant plane tree shading outdoor tables in Milopotamos main square in Kythira, Greece

Nothing beats sitting in the shade of the giant plane tree in the middle of the main square in Milopotamos. The setting is delightful, and the Greek salad and imam baldi are delicious.

Shop at Karin Kythira

Interior of Karin Kythira with colorful scarves, jewelry, bags, and clothing displayed in Kythira, Greece

Clothing, jewelry, bags, sunglasses, home décor – we love this store! It’s beautifully laid out with high-quality wares.

Clamber down to Kalami Beach

Small pebbled Kalami Beach framed by dramatic cliffs and sparkling sea on Kythira Island

Getting here isn’t for the faint of heart: you need to walk down a dirt road (don’t try to drive beyond the pavement!), hike down a trail, and then rappel down a brief section of rock (there are ropes to help you down, and it’s not as hard as it looks). But once you get there, you’ll be on one of the best beaches in Kythira – and you may have it all to yourself.

Day 3

Walk down 155 steps to Kaladi Beach

Kaladi Beach in Kythira with turquoise water, rocky cliffs, and a secluded pebble shoreline

There are a lot of stairs here, but they’re well-maintained. Once you get down, you have your choice of three beaches, the last of which is absolutely tiny (and you have to go through a tunnel to get there). There’s not much shade here, but we lay in the shade of a natural arch and had a wonderful time.

Have lunch at Psomoladea

Grilled fish with vegetables and creamy puree served at an Avlemonas restaurant in Kythira, Greece

The food here is a little pricier than some, but wow, is it worth it – just check to see if the restaurant is still open.

Take a dip at Avlemonas

Swimming ledge, white building, and palm trees in Avlemonas, Kythira, overlooking turquoise water

This isn’t a beach, per se – it’s a series of small man-made ledges – but the water is clear and the snorkeling is better than anything else we’ve found in Greece (though that bar remains very low). We really liked swimming here. And the town of Avlemonas, while looking very dry and hot, boasts a charming collection of white and blue houses that we haven’t seen anywhere else in southern Greece.

White houses and rocky shoreline in Avlemonas, Kythira, with a small boat and bright blue sea views

Stop for ouzo and a snack at Manolis Taverna

Ouzo bottle and ice bucket on a seaside table in Kythira with turquoise water and island views in Greece

This is a great place to sit and have a bite while you wait for the ferry (we particularly like their green salad with dried figs).

Take a quick dip at Diakofti

Panoramic view of Diakofti in Kythira, Greece, with turquoise water, ferry harbor, and white buildings below

If you have time, it’s worth visiting the sandy beach just across from the ferry terminal (you can swim on either side of the pier shown above). You’ll likely leave a bit damp and dreaming of your next visit.

Heading to Crete next? Read more about the ferry ride and our drive into the mountains here. Hikers and beach lovers also won’t want to miss the Samaria Gorge and the beaches of Paleochora.

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